Interview with Costume Designer GREGG BARNES
How did you become a costume designer?
I was a late bloomer in many ways. I’m from San Diego, and I was going to teach high school, and my major in college was dramatic literature. I took some technical classes towards my requirements and found I had a strong connection to design and history and clothing. A gentleman named Robert Morgan [costume designer] came to talk to the Masters students, and my teacher encouraged me and said I should go talk with him. Well, that conversation with him changed the course of my life. I went to NYU and got my Masters in costume design. After I graduated, I taught at NYU for twenty years. I just recently left. It was really through teaching that I realized how to question both my self and the students: ‘What is your philosophy and how do you create a character through clothing?’ I think I learned more from my students than they learned from me! (Laughs) I learned a lot from having to communicate that daily. It was a great platform to learn your public persona. I was also doing regional theater and opera. I was the resident costume designer at Paper Mill Playhouse [in New Jersey], and there I met Jerry Mitchell [the director of Legally Blonde]… Through his kindness and support, I did several shows with him, including Dirty Rotten Scoundrels on Broadway. This is my fifth Broadway show.
What does costume design add to a show? How do you view your role as a costume designer?
To be a costume designer the most important thing is to be a good listener… to listen to the people who you collaborate with. A clothing designer may be viewed as an auteur, but we’re kind of anonymous, because our job is to tell a story. I try to be a good listener. Sometimes you develop all these ideas, but they haven’t cast the actor. You could be thinking of an actress who is five feet, ten inches, and then they cast a four foot eleven inches character actor. So you have to be flexible, as sometimes you have to change for the actor, you have to be fluid. You can’t be too set on your ideas. I always tell the actors, don’t fall in love with the skirt, it could be pants tomorrow (laughs). I feel like my job in this case [with Legally Blonde], is to be a little quite. you want to bring a signature to it, but everybody-the book writer, the lyricist, the composer, the director, the choreographer, the other designers - all the collaborators and all the parts should be equal. It’s like an intricate mesh so that the story is the foremost thing.

In my past work, I did circus shows, the Radio City Christmas show and ice shows, shows where sometimes there’s no dialougue and no narrative. It’s just these amazing feats! I did a lot of htat kind of work, and it’s very different from Legally Blonde. With theater shows, you know whne you get it right - that’s when you know it’s just a skirt, and people say, “Oh, I loved her costume.” Then somehow it’s more than just clothes. The final ingredient is that - when the audience brings their own experience and ideas to the table too, so when they connect to it - it becomes more than just clothes.
How do you think costume design creates an emotional response? How does it convey emotional information?
Well, for example, in Act II, Elle has three different scenes where she’s onstage the whole time, so we had to have three different looks that reveal in different ways as she transitions from scene to scene, and also as she transitions into Harvard by wearing less pink [her signature color]. So the outfit changes subtly. But we also have a pink slip under the Harvard clothes. Little things like that, they’re subtle, and maybe the audience doesn’t notice it right away. But I think that subconsciously you do, and it shows how the character is staying true to herself. The actor Christian Borle, who plays the character of Emmet, wanted to obscure his natural bodyline, so [when Elle gives him a] makeover people think “wow!” Christian didn’t want to look too sloppy or unkempt before that, so we played over the course of many fittings, with a lot of input from him. He has such good instincts. Finally, we said, “why don’t we look on the Internet, and get a shirt from the Roxbury School [where Emmet’s character is from], and we’ll put it under a jacket. So Emmet wears a technical t-shirt, with a Roxbury logo, a very specific thing that we sought out to show that Emmet is still connected to his mother and his home. Also he wears a Star Trek watch, because Emmet is a little “nerdy.” All of those things are very carefully thought out. In San Francisco [where Legally Blonde began its performances], some of the young girls and teenagers would come dressed as Elle, which was thrilling! There was one girl who came with bunny ears! It appeals to our inner child, the idea of dress-up.
What sort of research did you do for Legally Blonde?
Well, we’ve seen the movie one thousand times! (Laughs) I had not seen the movie, the first movie, before this project. What I love about the movie is how many different levels it works on. You know the story within the first few minutes, but what’s interesting is HOW they tell it. The story itself is very inspiring. You know what I love about [the character of] Elle, is that she’s a woman who has it all, but she’s so kind. You never see her play that card. She’s a real humanitarian; very aware of all the people around her. I’m not a designer who’s done a lot of modern dress, fantasy or historical based. We spent a lot of time in pre-production. My assistant Skye and I photographed people here in New York City, on the Upper East Side. We had friends in Los Angeles who photographed people at the Beverly Center and on Rodeo Drive, and we had friends in Boston at Harvard, taking photos of what the kids were wearing. We looked at Vogue and those high-end magazines. We ran the gamut. We would show things to Jerry [Mitchell, the director]; we went through a million ideas. The design was a mix-master of a lot of different sources.
My favorite picture is from up on 5th Avenue, a beautiful blonde from the back, crossing the street. A beautiful lace summer dress. We based Elle’s first dress on it. I told my assistant, I wished we had a picture of her from the front, and he said, she was about seventy years old. So it can come from anywhere.
Legally Blonde has three different visual stories. First there is the Los Angeles story, which I call it the ‘Easter Bunny popped by’ look; the Harvard, a brown world in which we used every shade of brown, grey, ochres, greens, so she looks like a fish out of water. Then there’s Paulette’s world in the hair salon, which is a different suburban group… middle class, young and sexy. We wanted a rock star look [for them] so we used all denim, every denim idea you can imagine!. Then there’s the Delta Nus, too, [as the Greek Chorus]. Our story is about students, and Elle’s a fashion merchandising student, so she knows a lot.

There are a lot of challenges for a costume designer specific to the genre of musicals. You have to build [costumes] that are really strong. There are a lot of quick changes. A lot of fashion today is fragile and disposable; slip dresses, t-shirts, especially when you’re young. It’s funny, when you go from a drawing to a 3-D, it’s not always a home run. There is one dress in the show, where Elle was picking up her dog, and then she’s sitting on a rough texture a little later in the scene, and the dress kept snagging. Sometimes you have to see how the choreography works, how the design works, and design a costume that will fit all of [those elements]. We are always adjusting a lot of things up until the opening.
We drew it, painted it and then we had it bid [the designers take their designs to all the costume shops to assess how much it will take to be made]. You determine how much it’s going to cost. For this show, half of it is made, half of it is purchased. We went all over New York City, couture boutiques in NYC, Saks, Bergdorf Goodman, Woodbury Commons, mixing things together. Usually if it’s modern, it’s purchased. If it’s historical, it’s made. The challenge is walking the tightrope between what’s real and what’s the story. We don’t want to design it so it dates itself immediately. One of Paulette’s was inspired by a dress we saw of Beyonce in People magazine. When you see it, you will never get that, but you make your own.
What else inspired you for your designs in Legally Blonde?
When the actor inspires you – that’s the best way. Orfeh, the actress playing Paulette, was a rocker in the 1980’s – so I asked her what she wore then. She inspired me by her audition outfit. She’s very tender, but with a rough edge, very rock and roll, but in a playful way. We bought a pair of vintage platform high-heel sneakers, florescent green for her, first thing we found! When we showed them to Orfeh, she knew the brand, from when they were popular! They didn’t make the cut, but they inspired. I had seen Laura Bell Bundy (who plays Elle) in a full workshop of the show last year – and watched her, and it’s useful to know what suits the person. Elle wears a lot of pink in the first act, as it’s her signature color, and so Laura Bell wore a lot of pink to rehearsal to get into character. From that, I could see what shade of pink looked good on her. So the show is in cool pinks.
What is your own favorite costume in the show?
There’s a dress – I don’t want to say too much about it, except that it’s a trick – it’s the dress that she wears when Warner dumps her. My friend for 26 years, Jeff Bender, hand-painted the dress. It’s a very simple slip dress, but it’s hand-painted. I love the role it has in telling the story, and all the different people’s roles in it, Jeff’s, Jerry’s, and Laura Bell’s.
What is your own favorite outfit?
I work too hard to be dressed up! I have a uniform and it’s not impressive (laughs). I wear sneakers, jeans and a shirt un-tucked. I won a Tony last year, and I had to wear a tuxedo and that was so hard! I spend my life dressing other people up, and I’m the biggest mess in the room (laughs). Every job is difficult. The hours are long, I work 7 days a week, I love all the interacting I get to do with people. I don’t wear uncomfortable shoes, I make other people wear those. (laughs)

February 9th, 2010 | Tags: broadway, broadway san diego, broadway san diego tickets, Broadway Tickets, Civic Theatre, Civic Theatre Tickets, Costumes, Elle Woods, LEGALLY BLONDE, Legally Blonde on Tour, Legally blonde the musical, Legally Blonde the Musical tickets, Legally Blonde Tickets, Legally Blonde Tour Tickets, san diego, san diego tickets, tickets | Category: From Broadway/San Diego Staff | Leave a comment